Author Archives: Kim Baumgaertel

Speed Dating in a Medieval City

Shopping for carpets in Fes is a lot like speed dating. From what I understand, speed dating involves a group of men and women intent on establishing a long-term relationship by first eliminating unwanted prospects.  They meet.  They chat for five … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 3 Comments

Chapter Two: The Plot Gets a Teeny Bit Thicker

Later that evening, after a stroll through the oasis to admire the flora, Ibis and Yemkin chose an outdoor table for their dinner.  As they had noted in the morning, things had changed for the better, allowing hotel guests to … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 2 Comments

Night Life and Tests

Bats flitted, cats yowled, and the hotel garden was lit.  Who knew?  Not the ones who mostly go to bed before dark.   Fes is pretty, too. For a couple of teachers who are good ‘test takers’ themselves, we were … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 2 Comments

Tagine? i’yyah!

Finally.  We ate an authentic Moroccan dish.  With our fingers.  It was chicken and vegetable tagine with khubz, and it was delish.  Now that R is in the past, the cafeteria at school serves lunch, plus coffee, mint tea, and … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | Comments Off on Tagine? i’yyah!

We Know More Now…

…than we knew two weeks ago.  In fact, we were able to walk into Maroc Telecom this morning and buy a SIM card for Jim’s old i-Phone, turning it into a Morocco phone. The guy spoke darija, French, and a … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 1 Comment

If Life Were a Movie Script

Like a wool jellaba in June, heavy, gray clouds draped the city. Temperatures dipped below 100 for the first morning in two weeks, and a slight breeze stirred bamboo stalks and ruffled hibiscus blossoms.  Foreign voices hummed in the background … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 1 Comment

Today is Sunday

Jim says I don’t have to be clever every time I post, so that’s a relief.  Because if I had to … the pressure would be unbearable. So, without pressure I will run through our Sunday. We attended a lovely meeting of … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 1 Comment

skoon bezzef.

What might you do  in Fes when the temp soars to 111 degrees and you have a four-day weekend? You could watch the cats stroll through the lobby. You could wash all of your dirty clothes in the tub. Since your room … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 2 Comments

At Best, Time is Ambiguous

Anna! Thanks for the coffee-date invitation. I shall look forward to that in August; in the meantime, look what we found today: One black coffee, one coffee with milk (and a packet of sugar) for the equivalent of $1.11. Nice and … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 1 Comment

F Lqahwa: In the Coffee Shop

First of all, punkins, understand that we have been on an unintentional coffee fast in these parts.  Since our room lacks a coffeemaker, we lack coffee.  Coffee exists at breakfast, but it lacks taste.  Coffee shops exist, but are not … Continue reading

Posted in Articles | 1 Comment