Via Appia Antica

Italian breakfasts consist of cappuccino and a croissant, so they are considerably lighter than we’ve been used to after plentiful spreads in Israel and at the Hilton.  But, our little hotel here in Rome gives us “breakfast tickets” to take to the coffee place down the block, and we never turn down “free food”, especially before a long, long walk to the Appian Way.

Famous for the oldest surviving section of Roman road, for Sparticus’s slave revolt (resulting in 6000 crucifixions), and a place where the Apostle Paul walked — “and from thence, when the brethren heard of us, they came to meet us as far as the Appii Forum and three Inns.  When Paul saw them, he thanked God and took courage” — we anticipated a day in a park-like-setting.  Alas, ’twas not exactly so.

Setting out with satisfied bellies, we found Via Appia Antica and walked along it —

In many places, fragrant jasmine spilled over ancient walls while smallish Italian cars, colossal-ish tour busses, scooters, polizei, ambulances, diplomatic caravans, and bike riders whizzed by.  Apparently the road is closed to all but bicycle and foot traffic on Sundays and holidays, but today was a busy Saturday morning.

We walked and we walked and we walked some more; there was no shoulder to speak of so we got used to plastering our sweaty bodies pancake-like against the walls when a speeding auto veered a bit too close.

At long last, we found the entry into a catacomb area, and ducked in there for some water and a rest.  From here we did walk through a park for a few hundred yards before we were back on the road once more, searching for those elusive Roman roads. We even asked fellow touristy-looking people if they’d seen it yet, and all shrugged and said, “nope.  Still looking!”

But then!  At the very end of Via Appia Antica, without more than an itty-bitty sign, were the stones of the original road built by those Romans. The blue dot was thrilled —

Okay.  All done now, it was time for gelato.  But, no!  At the end of the Appian Way is a little deli, with sandwiches, gelato, and lots of tables in the shade and very few people sitting on them.  Jane and I ordered two sandwiches, thinking we’d split them with our hubbies and then we’d all get gelato — but we got ourselves kicked out, apparently for not ordering enough food.  “Okay, can we sit at those tables in the parking lot?”  No again.  Harumph.  We left, walked back from whence we came and caught a bus home.

In yet another snafu, the bus that was supposed to let us off at the coliseum didn’t so we walked some more, found gelato, saw the backside of the Forum, walked home and took naps.

We leave Rome tomorrow, on a train for Naples.  From there we’ll take a smaller, local train called the circumvesuviana for Pompeii, where we’ll stay a few nights.  Rome has been educational and fun, but we’re all ready for a quieter life.