The Road of Suffering

We did walk the Via Dolorosa, but our suffering resulted from 104 degree temperatures and a whole lot of walking today.  Just so you know, we are alive and hydrated.  We are also ready for bed now that we made it back to our rooms and had our evening meeting and scripture reading.  Before we collapse, though, here are the highlights.

Our morning began with fresh-squeezed orange and grapefruit juice from the vendor on the sidewalk, and also freshly-baked pastries from the bakery.  Setting out for the Garden Tomb, we chatted about how incredible it is to be walking the streets of Jerusalem and what a lovely day it was.  Flowers blooming everywhere now; bouganvilla (huh, that doesn’t look right), geraniums, delphinium.
Garden Tomb is one possible site for Golgotha and the tomb, and after being there and later the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, we vote for it.  Maintained by very sweet people from the UK, this place was quiet, smelled lovely, and had clean bathrooms (which we made sure to visit twice).  Below the possible Golgotha site is a very busy bus station, but above are plenty of benches for peaceful reflection.  We noted that this was the place where our sins were atoned for.

Around the corner was the possible tomb, and since there weren’t crowds we stood in line to walk inside.  The sign on the back of the door reads, “He is not here.  He has risen.”  It felt strange to think of the tomb in such close proximity to Golgotha until we noted a sign quoting John 19: 42, “So there they laid Jesus, because of the Jews’ preparation day, for the tomb was nearby.”

Part of the enjoyment of Jerusalem is the conversations we’ve had with both fellow visitors and locals.  At the tomb site we talked to visitors from Slovakia and India.  The Indian man asked the Slovakian man if his country was open to the gospel.  Jim chimed in and said we all were from Seattle, Washington, USA, and it is not open to the gospel.  The Indian man laughed, and said “I will pray for you!”
Next was the stroll down Via Dolorosa and the walk up Mount of Olives.  Don’t forget it was 104 degrees.  Mount of Olives is a big hill with the best view for seeing all of Jerusalem.  The walk to the top took a long time, as we stopped very frequently to drink water and catch our breaths.  At the top we posed for this picture, which I was able to get with my camera’s timer but unfortunately you won’t be able to see Temple Mount or the Dome behind us.

Here also, was an old Arab dressed all in white robes who reminded Anna of her dad because he had a white moustache and was “loud and irreverent” (but entertaining).  Dave posed for a picture with the donkey, and then gave the Arab guy 20 shekels.  The Arab was so happy, he said, “Now my donkey can eat!” before he kissed Dave on the cheek.  His donkey was named Peter; Dave says he felt like Balaam’s “donkey”, especially after Jim called Dave “hamar hamuck” and made the Arab laugh.

On our way back down the Mount of Olives (walking down is definitely easier than walking up, except the stones are slippery even when dry) we met a tour group from South Korea.  Jim first noticed that one of the leaders was wearing a hat with “Preach the Gospel” embroidered on the back and said, “I like your hat!”

We needed Magnums and water and found them at the bottom of the hill.  We also discovered that orange Fanta tastes so good!  One of the Arab men hanging out there struck up a conversation with the Mealeys because he had lived in Fairboult, Minnesota, for 18 years.  He also thought we should cancel our Abraham Tour to the Dead Sea and let him take us on a private tour for the same price — no, less! — and also to Masada!  And Bethlehem!  Um, no.
On the way next to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher (which is dark, gaudy and smells like incense) Tim said that Jim almost got us killed because he led us through a sketchy Arab section while following his little, blue Googlemaps dot.  But, no.  At this place there is a ladder propped against a second-floor window which has, as the story goes, been there for 200 years because none of the religious organizations who maintain the church building can agree on who should take it down.

By this time, we were pretty exhausted but still alive.  We found our way to the Cardo, found a great restaurant with air conditioning, ate falafel, and rested quite a while.  Then, we were done.

Done and done in.

Slogging our way back up Jaffa Street, we stopped for a breather in the shade.  Along came a young Jewish man, probably in his twenties, on his bicycle.  He stopped right by us to drink some water and struck up a conversation.  He was from Toronto, and is now “aliyah” — living permanently in Jerusalem.  He is also “Chabat” a member of one of the many Jewish sects.  After we chatted with him for a while, he paid us a complement:  “I feel you are righteous Gentiles.”  Thank you!  He needs Messiah Jesus, but he is still part of national Israel.

Lastly, before I post pics and sleep, we also walked through the “Tomb of the Prophets” and had a guided tour from the nice Arab man who maintains it.  He says that Zechariah, Malachi and Haggai are all buried there, along with their followers.  Dave research later and said that archeologists don’t agree, but it was fascinating…and dark…and so cool.  Also, the man told us that when he was 14 years old he and his family hid next to Zechariah for seven days during the six-day war.

That one is of the Golden Gate.  Notice the Muslim cemetery right in front and then go read Zechariah 14.